Desert Made: Aridus Wine Company


I swiped this photo from the Aridus Facebook page.

Arizona is not the first place to come to mind when you think of America's wine growing regions. But the Southwest, and Arizona in particular have a winegrowing history that goes back before America was America, some 450 years. Like much of America, the original vines were planted by missionaries, but Arizona has seen its wine profile rise like the rest of the western United States.

With over one hundred wineries getting serious about wine growing and production happening mostly in the southeastern part of Arizona; the state is home to two AVAs. Willcox AVA is the new comer established in 2016, while Sonoita dates to 1985.

Aridus Wine Company got its start in 2012 near the town of Willcox after the proprietors acquired forty acres located in Pearce, Arizona within the Willcox AVA and situated at 5,200 feet. The winemaker at Aridus is Lisa Strid who learned the craft in one of the Willamette Valley's high-end wine houses, as well as at the California giant E&J Gallo. Lisa came to Aridus in just the last couple years.

The winery's production right now includes a growing estate portfolio and a few wines that are made from fruit grown in nearby New Mexico and even Napa Valley. While they're currently growing Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Malvasia, they're also making some super cool, somewhat esoteric varietals that you simple don't see enough of, showing that even in their youth, they're not afraid to go outside the box.

2017 Sauvignon Blanc, American $33
This wine mostly comes from the Mimbres Valley in New Mexico with the remainder sourced in Cochise County, Arizona. Worth noting that Cochise is a fun name to say even over and over. While the American designation on the label might initially be disappointing, this is a wine of the American Southwest, not some hodge podge of grapes from the Central Valley mixed in with whatever is local. I feel comfortable calling this a wine of place.

This is an interesting production wine as well with most of it spending time in stainless steel and about 20% in oak barrels. It's an outstanding white wine, loaded with aromatics, bright and effusive citrus, cut hay and hint of wet stone. The palate has great texture, mouthfeel that accentuates the bright fruit palate and zippy acidity.

2016 Montepulciano, Mimbres Valley, New Mexico $36

Probably Italy's most ironically named grape in all of Italy if not the world Montepulciano is not from the famed Tuscan village of Montepulciano, they grow Sangiovese there. It's mostly at home in the Abruzzo region but I'd say, courtesy of this wine that the Mimbres Valley in New Mexico makes a compelling case for this medium bodied, often juicy red wine. Interesting note, it stopped fermenting on my birthday.

Loaded with rich and dark aromatics, plum, anise and hints of mocha, and a palate that is framed with ample tannin, blackberry compote, and cocoa powder. This might be a wine built for the long haul.


2016 Graciano, Cochise County Arizona $37
Much like the Montepulciano, Graciano is a little known grape from Rioja that if used at all in its homeland, is for blending with Tempranillo. It's a real shame frankly as Graciano is often fruity, fresh and frankly a much better match for Spanish food than those often austere Riojas.

Lots of spicy and mineral aromatics with gun flint and garrigue making an appearance, the wine is fresh with great acidity framing the palate along with a core of black fruit and white pepper.

Aridus is worth seeking out, particularly if you haven't tasted wines from this part of the states. The growing conditions, ample sunshine with great diurnal variation, think about how cold it gets in the desert at night. The altitude helps keep those acids up and the winemaking is imaginative. Currently the winery along with a few others, is pursuing the designation of a new AVA, the Chiricahua Foothills, we'll stay tuned.

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